Food in Albania, what does it taste like? And what does Albanian food mean? We've travelled by campervan along the coast, tried a bunch of restaurants and shopped in supermarkets and markets. Now we can share our experiences with Albanian food in Albania.
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Albanian food
Albanian cuisine is reminiscent of neighbouring Balkan cuisines, drawing inspiration from both Greece and Italy. The difference between regions can be quite large, as can the differences between inland and coastal tourist areas.
Traditional dishes such as byrek (filo pastry pie), kofta (minced meat dish) and baklava (sweet pastry) may be common inland or when invited to a family's home, but may not be found in tourist restaurants along the coast.
Food in Albania - in a restaurant
The food in restaurants in Albania is almost always good, but the variety is perhaps somewhat limited. Often there is a menu, but sometimes the waiter simply suggests grilling some meat or fish. Grilling chicken or lamb is popular, and along the coast you can almost always order fish or squid.
As in Italy, side dishes have to be ordered separately, and sometimes they are served as an appetiser. Menus often include things like French fries, various salads, grilled vegetables, tzatziki or yoghurt sauce. You can also be sure to find feta cheese (or any kind of sheep's cheese) all over the place: salad with feta cheese, baked feta cheese, omelette with feta cheese or simply ... feta cheese (djartë i bardhë in Albanian).
Sometimes you will also find more exciting dishes like byrek (pie), different soups and stews. However, when we have tried to order these dishes, which we perceive as traditional Albanian food, they have not been available - in smaller towns you can't always be sure that what is on the menu is actually in the kitchen.
Sometimes you'll also find a restaurant that stands out, such as the restaurant Guvat in Ksamil. Here we managed to order a lovely seafood plate for two, with prawns, mussels and squid.
At a campsite restaurant we were also surprised by "Albanian meze", which may not be a traditional concept but rather the restaurant owner's way of serving several small Albanian dishes. Good and nice in any case!
Food in Albania - with inspiration from Italy
It is perhaps not surprising that Albania has drawn inspiration from Italy. After all, parts of Albania were once part of the Republic of Venice, and Italy is only a boat ride away. What's more, Italians like to holiday in Albania, where for them it's very cheap. And what do Italians like to eat? Well, Italian food of course! In other words, pizza, pasta and risotto can be found everywhere in Albania, at least in the tourist areas.
Vegetarian food in Albania?
We met a young German couple during the trip who were vegetarians, and according to them it was sometimes a bit tricky to order vegetarian Albanian food. It was often pizza, pasta or French fries with feta cheese and salad. Beans are supposed to be part of the Albanian diet, but we did not see it to any great extent in the restaurants.
Is food in Albania affordable?
We are travelling by motorhome and have the opportunity to cook our own dinner in our own kitchen. For most of our journey around Europe we have done just that, but here in Albania we eat out all the time because it's so cheap.
One evening we chose to have dinner at the campsite's small restaurant here at Livadhi beach. We ordered souvlaki (skewers), French fries, tzatziki, Greek salad and grilled bread. And then two 50 cl beers each, cappuccino and watermelon. Soooo much food! The price? The bill ended up at 120 SEK together ... In other words, the food in Albania is far from expensive!
Food in Albania - in the shops
We have (so far) not found a single major grocery store in Albania, even though we have driven around a lot. In fact, we have not been to the big cities, but we have stayed in smaller towns along the coast. The supermarkets we have found are small, and in addition, half the store's surface is usually made up of ... cleaning products! (How much do they actually clean in this country???)
In the rest of the shop, you can usually find dry goods, tinned food, wine and other drinks, dairy products, fruit and vegetables, some fresh bread, some frozen meat and a counter with sausages, eggs and huge boxes with large blocks of feta cheese floating around in bulk.
Fresh fish and meat can be bought at the fish and meat shops. Vegetables are best bought at the market, where you can find delicious tomatoes and good olives, for example.
So, what do we think of the food in Albania?
To summarise, we can say that we find Albanian food good and very affordable, while the variety of restaurants (at least in the tourist areas) is quite limited.
We must also say that Albanians are extremely generous and hospitable. Several times during our trip we have had the chance to taste local pastries, fruit or maybe a raki (liquor) just because we were invited by a campsite owner or some other casual acquaintance.
More on food in Albania - 22 Albanian specialities
Below we present 22 different Albanian dishes, desserts and pastries that might be interesting to try if you are travelling to Albania.
1. Fergesë
One of Albania's national dishes that can easily be adapted to vegetarian. It is also made in two ways in the north and in the south of Albania. We have Fergesë e Tiranës me peperka (Tirana stew) and we have Fergesë me melci from the north, with chicken liver and rice.
2. speca me mbushur
Stuffed peppers are both vegetarian and with meat if you want. The base is peppers, rice and onions, and then you just mix it up as you like.
3. National law Tavë Kosi
The national dish of Albania is called Tavë Kosi and consists of lamb in garlic, baked in the oven, rice with vegetables and yoghurt sauce.
4. Petulla tradicionale
Pancake buns made from dough that you fry in a frying pan. Then add whatever flavour you want to add if you want?
5th Qifqi Girokastre
Rice balls from Girokaster are unique in Albania. Cook the rice as usual. Mix a bowl with eggs, mint, salt and pepper. Now mix everything together and make balls of the mixture. Fry the balls in olive oil in the frying pan.
6. Traditional pie Byrek
The Byrek pie is made with filo pastry as a base and then you add whatever is good for the day, perhaps cheese, spinach or some kind of meat.
7. qofte - minced meat balls
Qofte are minced meat balls or sausages. A typical recipe is minced meat, salt, pepper, cayenne pepper, feta cheese, garlic and mint. Mix together and make large golf balls and fry in plenty of oil in a frying pan. Serve with a feta cream.
8. qofteri
There are several small restaurants that specialise in ... Meatballs and beer! You can't go wrong.
9. Dolma
This can be done in many different ways, but essentially you fill something that is basically rice, minced meat, mint, garlic and onion. Stuff an aubergine, vine leaf, cabbage leaf, onion, courgette, tomato or pepper and make your Albanian dolmas.
10. Pilaf is a favourite Albanian food.
Browned rice in olive oil, then cooked in broth with spices. Add vegetables to make it vegetarian, or add meat or fish/seafood.
11. Gjellë
The most common dish for lunch in Albania is Gjellë, and all Albanians eat a proper lunch. It is a long-cooked meat stew with lots of vegetables, olives, different kinds of omelettes, milk, coffee and more.
12. baklava
The pastry that accompanies a coffee or dessert made from filo dough. Baklava contains honey and various nuts such as walnuts, almonds or pistachios. Baklava comes from the Ottoman Empire.
13. Pandispanjë
It is traditional to use flour, sugar, butter and eggs to make your sponge cake. Now we need to think about what goes in... fruit, chocolate, jelly and all are welcome in your Pandispanjë.
14. whiplash
Cornbread with spinach or leeks. It is a type of cornbread that can be thin or thick with vegetables.
15. patëllxhan to mbushur
Stuffed baked aubergine with goodies such as peppers, fried onions, tomatoes, aubergine flesh, vegetables and even some meat.
16. Perime në zgarë - grilled vegetables
According to all Albanians, grilled food is the best, preferably with balsamic vinegar and spices.
17. Albanian food: grilled meat
Beef, pork, lamb, chicken, sausages or one-kilo barbecue chops. Barbecue is everywhere and is a favourite among Albanians.
18. grilled fish
As the entire west coast is made up of sea, Albanians have the best of a very varied diet. Fish comes in all forms, including prawns and squid.
19. tirokafteri
A cheese-based starter/snack using feta and other white cheeses. This is like hummus but Albanian style.
20. Jufka pasta
Pasta made from whole wheat durum and normally handmade in Albania. The pasta was hung for natural fermentation in the restaurants, showing that it was handmade.
21. Food in Albania: Sultjash
Sultjash is a very popular rice pudding and is like one of those delicious risi frutti. Raspberry, strawberry, cinnamon, saffron, gooseberry and so many good flavours.
22. Akullore
Akullore is ice cream and fits all shapes in a mostly warm country.
Coffee
Albanians love their coffee and Tirana is very well known for its coffee culture.
Dhalla
Dhallë is yoghurt-based, diluted with milk and salt, and should be kept ice cold for hot days.
Drinks combined with Albanian food
So what do you drink with food in Albania? Since many people are Muslim, there are those who choose not to drink alcohol. However, drinks such as beer, wine and spirits are common.
Oil in Albania
The best and tastiest beers you'll find in Albania are the light ones, and here are a few to choose from.
- Kuqalashe
- Tirana
- Stela
- Korca
- Elbar
- Peja
Red and white wines
Albanians started making wine long before many other countries and have very good and fertile soil for it. They produce only for their own people and they drink a lot of wine in the country. Here are some brands that you will come across if you visit Albania.
- Kantina Arbëri is available in both red and white.
- The Bualioti vineyard from Përmet you will find a red (Merlot) and a white (Debine).
- Cobo Winery with a red Kashmer.
- Nurellari Winery: Try the red Montemeca or the white Pulsi Beratit.
- Uka Winery has two reds that you can ask for. Kallmet or Chimaera or the white Ceruja.
- Kalmeti Winery has a red Kallmet Prestigi.
- Shesh i zi is a red wine that comes from the Shesh mountain outside Tirana.
Raki
Albania is not Albania but Raki. This is like a national drink that you drink from time to time. They also have a brandy called Skënderbeu that Albanians are very proud of.
Albanian food at Christmas and New Year
Christmas is not a big deal in Albania as many people are Muslim, but despite this you can still see Christmas signage in the country. On New Year's Eve, people give presents and exclude meat. Soups, pies, sweets, chocolate and wine are the order of the day.
More reading
Below you can read more about Albania as a travel destination. You can also read more about food culture and dishes in other countries. Click on the links or the image below to find more stories.
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Deciree says:
You look like you are having such a wonderful time:) Surely it is difficult with the food when you are travelling... exciting it can also be sometimes;-) Continue to have a good time.
22 August 2015 - 7:34
Christina says:
Keeping up with you on the blog is a privilege, educational and so enjoyable.
We look forward to the next post and wish you a continued exciting journey.
22 August 2015 - 7:52
Maggan and Ingemar says:
Perhaps one of the reasons why we don't eat out so often....you don't always know what you're going to get....
I recognise that with the shops, it's not always easy to find what you're looking for, but it's cheap.
The more I read about your trip there, the more you want to return, but then it will probably be early autumn when you can still swim.
Take care
22 August 2015 - 8:38
admin says:
Deciree, the hardest thing here has almost been finding some more exciting dishes that feel genuinely Albanian. There are many restaurants and it's easy to find grilled, Greek and Italian food.
Christina, thanks for the nice comment. Glad to hear it!
Maggan and Ingemar, we have probably received what we ordered without any problems, but what we mean is that we have sometimes pointed to dishes and then they say they are out... 😉 Early autumn is probably a good time to go here!
22 August 2015 - 8:43
Marie says:
How exciting about the cleaning products! Is it shiny clean everywhere then? 🙂
22 August 2015 - 8:46
admin says:
Marie, at least we see that they clean very often. The toilets at the campsites for example! It feels like they are standing there scrubbing and cleaning most of the time 😉.
22 August 2015 - 8:49
Mr Steve says:
I think it seems to be a pretty decent food mix they have created. There is always something that fits. And at very affordable prices.
22 August 2015 - 9:07
Lars Permeln says:
Albania is probably not a country I want to visit. I get the feeling that it smells more like detergent than food in their supermarkets.
22 August 2015 - 9:24
Ama de casa says:
I recognise the typical "p" food. Pizza, pasta and chips. I would bet on the feta cheese dishes, I think. Exciting to see how you can vary it ðŸ™'
But it's a bit expensive to eat out there, isn't it? 😉
22 August 2015 - 9:40
admin says:
Steve, so far everything has tasted good (although not everything has been fantastic) and Greek and feta cheese dishes are almost never wrong.
Lars Permeln, I think they shop a bit differently. There are nice little fishmongers, butchers and greengrocers - and they smell of fresh produce. These other shops seem to be for very basic goods - cleaning products, tinned food, flour etc....
Ama de casa, yes indeed, it is soooo expensive... NOT! 😉
22 August 2015 - 9:53
Lennart says:
Exciting to try other food cultures!
Live well!
22 August 2015 - 11:11
BP says:
I can't help but remember Bulgaria 20 years ago. There was exactly the same selection in the shops as you describe. Now Albania is "behind" given the background, but it will probably still take some time until the country catches up. Albania is a poor country and Carrefour does not invest there in the first place.
But the food selection in the small restaurants is quite ok I think. Oh soooo cheap!
22 August 2015 - 12:03
Ditte says:
Maybe there is on the menus what the restaurants think tourists want. one way to see what can be Albanian is to see what the people themselves order. (Something we usually do when travelling to get more local food, but maybe they don't go out to eat so often).
I recognise some of this with the food not being available / being out of stock. This was the case in both Romania and Bulgaria when I was there in the early 1970s. And sometimes certain raw materials are missing ...
It is fun to hear about your experiences and food is quite central if you are travelling. Price-wise, it is cheap for us, but certainly not for the Albanians themselves.
22 August 2015 - 13:23
admin says:
Lennart, it's always interesting!
BP, interesting to hear how it was in Bulgaria! There might be some bigger food shops in Tirana, but so far we have only found "Markets" and one small little "Conad" in Saranda.
Ditte, yes, that's exactly what I mean! What is served in restaurants can sometimes be what you think the tourists want (pizza and pasta for example), instead of what the Albanians eat. We don't always know who is Albanian in the restaurants (there are Macedonians, Montenegrins, Romanians, etc. and it's hard for us to distinguish the languages), otherwise it's a good idea! And you might be right - most Albanians don't go to restaurants very often.
22 August 2015 - 13:24
Thomas says:
Thank you so much for all the great tips!
Going tomorrow morning to Durres Riviera 1 week and hope to enjoy sun, bath and good food.
09 September 2019 - 18:17