Kutna Hora and the skeleton church in Sedlec

The Czech town of Kutna Hora, seven miles east of Prague, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its architecture. In the Middle Ages, the town was the centre of a thriving silver mining industry and today it is famous for its buildings and churches - not least the skeleton church of Sedlec or the bone house of Sedlec as it is also known. This church is decorated with the bones of 40,000 people ...

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How to get to Kutna Hora

We are on a campervan trip and have now travelled from the mountains in the north of the Czech Republic to Kutna Hora (and actually a bit further, but we are a bit behind on the blog). If you don't drive a motorhome, there are of course also several other ways to get here!

Located just east of Prague, Kutna Hora can be visited as a day trip from the Czech capital. You can book an organised tour, rent a car yourself or take the train, which takes about an hour.

Old town of Kutna Hora

We parked the motorhome near the Old Town in Kutna Hora (by the swimming pool) and set off to explore. We have actually been here once before, but that was eight years ago, and that time we had two restless 14-year-olds with us who were moderately interested in history. So we still had a lot to discover!

Santa Barbara in Kutna Hora

We started by walking around the city's cosy neighbourhoods. It almost feels like you're travelling back in time as you stroll around the city's cobbled alleys, stone houses, arches and gothic churches. The city centre is actually listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, along with the Church of Santa Barbara and the Cathedral of Our Lady in Sedlec.

Lunch in Kutna Hora

When we got hungry, we had lunch at a nice little restaurant. Harmonia, where we sat in a leafy little courtyard and enjoyed the peace and quiet. We each ordered a "tortilla sandwich" with chicken and blue cheese and a local Czech beer. The feast cost 70 SEK per person - both good and affordable!

Church of St Barbara

Full and satisfied, we walked to the impressive church of St Barbara. Construction of this magnificent church began in 1388 and was not completed until 1905, when the roof was finished. St Barbara was the patron saint of miners, and the reason this saint had such a large church was because Kutna Hora lived off its silver mine for many years.

Kyrkan — It took many years to complete this magnificent church.

Santa Barbara kyrka — I just had time to take a photo on the short side of the church - a second later the rain came down...

Don't miss checking out our 360 photo from inside the church! You can spin around in the photo, with your mouse pointer or by turning your mobile phone/ipad and see what it looks like around the church.

The skeleton church in Sedlec - the ossuary in Sedlec

Although St Barbara is undoubtedly the most impressive church in Kutna Hora, it is perhaps the small skeleton church in Sedlec, just outside Kutna Hora, that is the most talked about. This small chapel, also known as the Bone House in Sedlec, is rather unassuming on the outside, but inside it is richly and artfully decorated with the bones and skulls of 40,000 people.

No graves in Kutna Hora

When masses of people died simultaneously in the Black Death, there was an acute shortage of burial places in the cemetery and, according to legend, a blind monk was commissioned to decorate the chapel with the skeletal remains of these people. The skeletons are a reminder of death, human transience and the importance of spirituality. Maybe there is some reasonable or wise thought behind it, but one has to say that it feels rather macabre ...

Skelettkyrkan i sedlec - benhuset i sedlec — The Skeleton Church of Sedlec (or the Ossuary of Sedlec) is full of skeletal parts ...

Café i husvagn i Kutna hora — A small caravan café in Sedlec, a stone's throw from the skeleton church.

READ MORE: The beautiful city of Brno in the Czech Republic
READ MORE: The fairytale town of Cesky Krumlov in Czechia

More churches in Kutna Hora

Today Kutna Hora is home to around 20,000 people, and there are plenty of churches for the small population. During the town's heyday, between the 13th and 18th centuries, it was the centre of an active silver mining industry, and the Bohemian kings often stayed here.

But despite this, it's a little hard to understand the need for this huge amount of opulent churches! In addition to St Barbara and the skeleton church in Sedlec, you can visit the Cathedral of Our Lady in Sedlec and the church of St James. And many more, if you haven't had your fill of churches yet...

Parking and getting around in Kutna Hora

If you come to Kutna Hora by car or camper van, you can park at the swimming pool, where there are large free car parks. From here it is a very short walk to the Old Town and St Barbara's Church.

Train in Kutna Hora

To get to Sedlec, which is a little way out of town, you can either take a small local train (which should take a few minutes) or drive. Parking in Sedlec with a large car is not as easy, but we've managed it both times we've been there. If you want to stay in Kutna Hora with your motorhome overnight, there is a small central campsite called Santa Barbara.

Accommodation in Kutna Hora

We have not stayed there ourselves, but we made a quick visit. Our conclusion is that it looks nice and the staff are helpful, if not particularly knowledgeable in English. The pitches are relatively small, and some may be slightly inclined.

More to see in the neighbourhood?

If you visit Kutna Hora, why don't you also visit Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic? Read our top tips: 30 things to see and do in Prague - big guide with tips. Another place in the neighbourhood that is definitely worth a visit is the secretive Konopiste forest castle, where you stroll around rose gardens, statues, deer and peacocks.

29 June 2017 6:00

Czech Republic

history, Motorhome trip Czech Republic, attraction, metropolis, UNESCO heritage, experiences in Europe

Helena

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24 Comments

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Lennart says:

Czech Republic is a nice country with good beer!

29 June 2017 - 6:53

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  Helena says:
  
  Yes, they know beer in this country! 🙂
  
  29 June 2017 - 7:55
  
  Reply
Ama de casa says:

A bit macabre, but fascinating with the skeleton church. Saw the catacombs in Paris where they made patterns with skeletal bones in the aisles. And that was at least underground, where skeletons are more common, so to speak.

I recognise the feeling of falling behind on the blog. I will probably get some "cord posts" from our last trip for a while now 😉.

Keep up the good work!

29 June 2017 - 8:43

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- Comment by post author
  
  Helena says:
  
  Yes, it is a bit macabre. And maybe that's why it's fascinating. One wonders how their thoughts went when they built this and how they looked at things then? And yes, easy to "fall behind" ... will probably have to save some things until we get home 😉.
  
  29 June 2017 - 9:01
  
  Reply
Matts Torebring says:

In the early 2000s we drove through the Czech Republic. It is an almost horrifying memory. Border police officers sticking the K-piste in the car, long queues at the border, uphill slopes where traffic was slow, lined with 100s of prostitutes. I realise those things are gone now, but the first impression lives on.

I am currently reading about Auswitch, so I had not entered the skeleton church. The Santa Barbara church, on the other hand, was mightily impressive. Enjoy your trip!

29 June 2017 - 8:51

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  Helena says:
  
  Is it true? In the 21st century? It's actually hard to understand ... You don't notice the borders at all (except for a sign if you can see it) and thus no queues either. None of the other things you describe we have seen either ... The biggest problem so far has been that there is quite a lot of road construction and that means that you suddenly have to choose a new road. Otherwise, it is a green, nice and pleasant country to travel through:)
  
  29 June 2017 - 9:05
  
  Reply
4000mil says:

I was there in 1993. Feels on the pictures that it is very refreshed since then. Remember a grey dirty village/town with a macabre skeleton church. 🙂

29 June 2017 - 9:33

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  Helena says:
  
  Interesting! Yes, it can certainly have happened a lot since 1993. Now the Old Town feels very nice and cosy I must say! 🙂
  
  29 June 2017 - 12:09
  
  Reply
Ditte says:

Interesting to know more about this, but it does seem macabre to have skeletal parts in a church. Remember like Ama the catacombs in Paris, but they are underground.
And there is plenty to see and discover.
Wishing you a good trip today too.

29 June 2017 - 10:30

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  Helena says:
  
  The skeleton church seems very special and a bit macabre. But interesting! And otherwise the city is very nice and nice!
  
  29 June 2017 - 12:10
  
  Reply
åsa in åsele says:

Fascinatingly creepy with the skeleton church.
I first thought before I read about the Black Death that it was memories of the Second World War/Holocaust/Jewish extermination.
The Czech Republic is the part of the former Czechoslovakia that has the best economy after the division, Slovakia is behind... but it is making progress, even if it is not fast.
Interesting journey you are doing 🙂

29 June 2017 - 12:03

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  Helena says:
  
  We have never visited Slovakia. It would also be interesting of course, but we haven't heard much that attracted us. But who knows, it may be that we just don't know enough? The Czech Republic has considerably more tourists, and that of course helps the economy.
  
  29 June 2017 - 12:14
  
  Reply
Mr Steve says:

Imagine how things have changed in the formerly grey and dreary eastern states.
If it's beer, it should be Czech beer. In my opinion.

29 June 2017 - 13:31

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  Helena says:
  
  It's probably the grey buildings of the communist era that make you think of Eastern Europe as grey. But fortunately, there are many buildings from other eras as well 🙂.
  
  29 June 2017 - 17:45
  
  Reply
Anna, New York - My Bite of the Big Apple says:

What beautiful houses!

It's great that eating out in the Czech Republic is still so cheap. You are real specialists in the country by now! 🙂

The skeleton church was macabre to say the least. Had probably not gone in there more than once. 😉

29 June 2017 - 14:04

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  Helena says:
  
  Haha, yes, we have been around a lot in the Czech Republic now 😉 We like to learn a few countries properly, rather than trying to cover as many as possible 😉.
  
  29 June 2017 - 17:46
  
  Reply
BP says:

It's always fun to go back to places you've been and "walk Memory Lane".
The exterior of St Barbara's is really impressive. The skeleton church, on the other hand, I find macabre, but as an attraction it is unbeatable, of course.
When I saw your lunch, the price is ridiculously cheap. Such a large beer costs more here than the entire meal in the Czech Republic. Well, just like in Spain then:-)

29 June 2017 - 22:07

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- Comment by post author
  
  Helena says:
  
  It's fun to eat out when it's this cheap! 🙂 Incidentally, I agree that food prices in Spain are also good.
  
  29 June 2017 - 22:36
  
  Reply
Snows says:

There is a similar underground church/chapel in Rome. A bit macabre but also a way of honouring the dead. Much like some religions use the skull of the deceased as a pillow to gain strength.

30 June 2017 - 18:33

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- Comment by post author
  
  Helena says:
  
  Very interesting! I hadn't heard of the one in Rome.
  
  30 July 2017 - 18:10
  
  Reply
Christina says:

So much fun and inspiring to follow your journey. ??☀️

01 July 2017 - 7:45

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- Comment by post author
  
  Helena says:
  
  Christina, how nice to hear that you think so! 🙂
  
  30 July 2017 - 18:10
  
  Reply
Elisabeth says:

I recognised myself in this post. Here we have also travelled around and looked at world heritage sites and churches. We also stayed at a campsite, which was in someone's garden with flowers and fruit trees. Really nice!

01 July 2017 - 16:22

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- Comment by post author
  
  Helena says:
  
  How nice that you recognise yourself! And it sounds like a very cosy campsite! 🙂
  
  30 July 2017 - 18:11
  
  Reply

Kutna Hora and the skeleton church in Sedlec

How to get to Kutna Hora

Old town of Kutna Hora

Santa Barbara in Kutna Hora

Lunch in Kutna Hora

Church of St Barbara

The skeleton church in Sedlec - the ossuary in Sedlec

No graves in Kutna Hora

More churches in Kutna Hora

Parking and getting around in Kutna Hora

Train in Kutna Hora

Accommodation in Kutna Hora

More to see in the neighbourhood?

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24 Comments

Lennart says:

Helena says:

Ama de casa says:

Helena says:

Matts Torebring says:

Helena says:

4000mil says:

Helena says:

Ditte says:

Helena says:

åsa in åsele says:

Helena says:

Mr Steve says:

Helena says:

Anna, New York - My Bite of the Big Apple says:

Helena says:

BP says:

Helena says:

Snows says:

Helena says:

Christina says:

Helena says:

Elisabeth says:

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