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Ardeche canyon

09 August 2018 / 43 Comments

Ardeche in France - and the Pont d'Arc

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In the Ardeche region of France, you'll find unparalleled scenery with a dramatic canyon, a long river with crystal clear water and intensely green forests. There are also lots of deep caves, some of which are home to 36,000-year-old paintings. We tried gliding down the long river in a canoe and fell in love. We want to go back!

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To Pont d'Arc in Ardeche

After the visit to Sainte-Maximin-La-Sainte-Baume and the failed attempt to stop in Aix-en-Provence, we continued to Pont d'Arc in Ardeche.

The last bit we drove along the Route Touristique des Gorges de l'Ardèche. Wow! This road runs along a canyon that is somewhat reminiscent of the Gorges du Verdon. It's really quite magically beautiful to drive here. As well as the breathtaking views, you drive through a series of dramatic little tunnels.

Vägar Ardeche
Tunnel

Gorges de l'Ardèche

The Ardeche canyon in France is breathtakingly beautiful with its dramatic mountainsides, intense greenery and the river's clear waters. According to English-language Wikipedia, the area attracts over a million visitors a year, many of whom choose to glide along the river's waters in colourful kayaks.

Ardeche Frankrike
Ardeche

We stopped at one viewpoint after another. Sometimes we only got a hundred metres before it was time to stop again ...

Frankrike Ardeche
Gorge Ardeche
Ardeche

Caves in Ardeche

Ardeche is full of caves, and seven of them are open to tourists. We visited a cave called Grotte de la Madeleine. This cave is full of large stalagtites and stalagmites in a reddish-brown colour, and in all sorts of imaginative shapes. The cave has also been found to contain the bones of various animals.

Madeleine grotta
Madeleine grotta Frankrike
Grotta Madeleine

Cave paintings in Caverne du Pont d'Arc

In 1994, the Chauvet cave was discovered, with some of the the world's oldest paintings. The cave paintings here are 36,000 years old (!). How hard is that to imagine ...? As well as being a staggering number of years old, the pictures are supposed to be very well made and vibrant.

The real cave is not open to the public because human breath destroys the paintings over time. Instead, a huge amount of money has been spent on building a replica of the cave and paintings. We drove here at lunchtime, and were told that the next available tour was at 18:30, and we couldn't wait that long... So if you want to visit the centre in high season, it's a good idea to book in advance!

Ardeche caverne
I Caverne du Pont d'Arc

Canoeing in Ardeche

However, we did manage a canoe trip! We booked the trip through our campsite, which also rented out canoes. They drove us upstream eight kilometres and then we paddled back to the campsite. This was a fantastic trip! The water is crystal clear and the nature is stunningly beautiful.

kanot och på väg till Pont d'Arc
kanoter i närheten av Pont d'Arc

For the most part, the water is calm and in some places it is lightly flowing. In the places where it was most crowded, people stood and guided the right way to get there without problems. Everywhere we also saw people swimming and children jumping from rocks.

Ardeche kanoter nära Pont d'Arc

The Pont d'Arc natural arch

One of the most spectacular natural formations is the natural stone arch called Pont d'Arc, located near the village of Vallon-Pont-d'Arc. The arch is 60 metres wide and 54 metres high, and is clearly visible from the road. What's more, when you're kayaking, you're paddling right under it!

Pont d'Arc Frankrike
Pont d'Arc

Our film from Ardeche

Here you can watch a film from Ardeche, edited by Peter.

Campsites in Ardeche

There are indeed lots of campsites in Ardeche. We went camping Noonwho had a pitch available for us when we arrived. The campsite is right next to Pont d'Arc and has its own beach down to the river. They also rent out kayaks here.

Flod Ardeche vid Pont d'Arc
The campsite's own view of the riverside location
Kanot Ardeche i Frankrike nära Pont d'Arc
The beach at camping Midi

The atmosphere at the campsite was great with a mixture of motorhomes and young people camping with military tents, storm kitchens, hammocks and small camper vans. It was not easy to get into our spot, but a whole bunch of French youngsters helped us by moving cars, waving and beckoning. One of them actually spoke perfect Swedish - after studying Swedish for a year in Stockholm to become an interpreter!

When we left the next day, they probably didn't think we would manage to get out. When Peter, after a while of steering, managed to turn out of the place, the whole youth group applauded ...!

camping Midi

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09 August 2018 6:00
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  1. Monet says:

    Oh... so wonderful that you got there! Thank you for such beautiful pictures and nice reportage - now we are even more inspired to really get there! Too bad about the Chauve cave, but if it has been there for so long, it must still be there! The paintings are fantastic and you still have the beautiful magazine with all the pictures. And the other cave did not go off without a hitch either. What a wonderful canoe trip as well - I really understand that you want to come back. France is fantastic!

    09 August 2018 - 7:45

    Reply

    • Comment by post author

      Helena says:

      Truly a fantastic place! Incredibly beautiful and absolutely wonderful to paddle here! Yes, we would like to come back and have more time. Paddle a full day for example. And then we could also see the replica that we missed now. Maybe next year 🙂 Many thanks again for great tips, and of course for the magazine!!!

      09 August 2018 - 10:16

      Reply

  2. Husis blog says:

    What a great report!
    That the breath can destroy so much in caves, it was something new but interesting for the owners. It must have been magical to see all this in real life as pictures are never the same as when you visit the place.

    09 August 2018 - 8:55

    Reply

    • Comment by post author

      Helena says:

      Yes, it has apparently happened in other caves, that the cave paintings start to deteriorate and have to be closed. Therefore, only researchers are allowed to enter the real cave. And yes, it's another thing to be in the real thing!

      09 August 2018 - 12:21

      Reply

  3. Eva - People in the Street says:

    Oh how nicely you captured the area where I hung out a lot in the 90s. Hung (literally) mostly on the climbing rocks there, canoeing and camping. I have also visited the cave, very powerful.

    Now I also want to go back there ...

    Have fun!

    09 August 2018 - 9:22

    Reply

  4. Ama de casa says:

    WOW!!! Amazingly beautiful!

    When I look at the campsite's map of the "paddling trail", it looks like there are a whole bunch of locks along the trail? Were there such? But now that I look closer, it looks like it might be something else. If the remains of my school French had not been non-existent, I might have realised WHAT it was too 😀.

    Nicely done with the campervan there 🙂 ðŸ™'

    09 August 2018 - 9:25

    Reply

    • Comment by post author

      Helena says:

      It's really crazy beautiful! There are no locks. I do not know exactly what they mean on the map, but in some places there are small short rapids. My school French usually doesn't help much either, just a little bit sometimes 😉.

      09 August 2018 - 13:13

      Reply

  5. Monet says:

    Just so you know, I have shared and commented and stood in so now you have gained many more followers and happy readers. Well worth it because you are such a master at finding and describing the most amazing places!

    09 August 2018 - 10:37

    Reply

  6. Renate's travels says:

    What an incredibly beautiful place! Shame about the cave, but I'm sure there are opportunities to go back in the future. I would love to see it (or the replica then) myself. 🙂

    09 August 2018 - 10:39

    Reply

  7. Mr Steve says:

    OMG! What amazing nature experiences. 36,000 year old cave paintings. Then I realise that my life on earth is just a moment .

    There are so many beautiful rivers in France that meander through stunningly beautiful scenery. I haven't canoed on any of them, but I remember one occasion in particular when D and I hired a boat with an electric motor and glided along the Dordogne River. In total silence and stillness. It's one of those memorable events that I like to pull out when I want to feel good.

    09 August 2018 - 12:23

    Reply

    • Comment by post author

      Helena says:

      Yes, these were really fantastic nature experiences! And so dizzying with the old cave paintings. I can't even believe how long ago this was! How wonderful it sounds with the silent boat in the Dordogne River! Understand that it is a nice memory!

      09 August 2018 - 17:06

      Reply

  8. Anette says:

    What wonderful nature and well captured in the picture.
    Are you rolling home now?

    09 August 2018 - 13:46

    Reply

  9. JoY says:

    I can only agree, it is a fantastic area.
    Hugs

    09 August 2018 - 13:59

    Reply

  10. TravelAnna says:

    Agreed: Wow, it was really fabulously beautiful! So lovely to paddle there.

    I've never heard of a cave replica before. Smart idea! Now some people are probably a bit scared of caves too ...

    Thanks for the interesting tour!

    09 August 2018 - 14:19

    Reply

  11. Mattes says:

    We stayed at the nice campsite http://www.ardechois-camping.com
    two years ago. It was listed as number 5 of the best campsites in Europe. In high season a bit too expensive 84€, at most per night. We had significantly lower price with Acsi Card. This is one of the few places we long to return to. We did not canoe, but we cycled. This was a place we hardly wanted to leave.

    09 August 2018 - 19:43

    Reply

  12. Matts Torebring says:

    We stayed at the nice campsite http://www.ardechois-camping.com
    It was listed as number five of best campsites in Europe. In high season a bit too expensive, 84€ per night. We stayed much cheaper in June with the Acsi Card. This is one of the few places we really want to go back to. Everything is absolutely fantastic.

    09 August 2018 - 19:48

    Reply

    • Comment by post author

      Helena says:

      Wow! Sounds fantastic! Maybe not quite our price range though 😉 But recognise what you say, you get a very good discount with the Acsi card if you go a little before the high season!

      09 August 2018 - 22:37

      Reply

  13. BP says:

    Absolutely amazing views. What a post! What an adventure!
    If you remember, I recommended the Gorge du Tarn the last time you were on a long trip. This gorge could be a copy of the one I suggested you visit. However, Gorde de l'Ardèche is more "untouched". There are more buildings at Gorge du Tarn.
    Great fun that you met so many nice and helpful young people. There is hope;-)

    09 August 2018 - 21:05

    Reply

    • Comment by post author

      Helena says:

      That's right! I remembered that I got a tip about another "gorge", but not exactly what it was called ... Fantastic that they have so many such nice places in France! I now checked on the map where it is located and it is not so far from Ardech. Third time lucky maybe we can get it too! 🙂

      09 August 2018 - 22:41

      Reply

  14. Britt-Marie Lundgren says:

    What a wonderful place! We would really like to go here!

    09 August 2018 - 22:16

    Reply

  15. Ditte says:

    Thank you for this lovely post and the tour. Fantastic pictures! Was a lot in France and in these areas in the 60s, 70s and 80s. Have canoed and also camped here in the neighbourhood and then had plenty of time. These areas are difficult to hurry through if you do not have to. I think we lived in Vallon Pont ´Darc. I studied French in various rounds in Aix en Provence and it was then quite easy to get here.
    I would love to come here again. But, as usual, there are so many attractions. But I like France very much.
    Keep up the good work! Looking forward to new adventures.

    09 August 2018 - 23:01

    Reply

  16. Susjos says:

    Yes, what beautiful places there are! What great photos!

    09 August 2018 - 23:19

    Reply

  17. Elisabeth says:

    What a wonderful trip. Let's see if we can direct Ellen there at some point!

    11 August 2018 - 12:33

    Reply

  18. Anonymous says:

    It looks great and I wonder if you can drive a larger motorhome 7.40?

    12 August 2018 - 11:40

    Reply

  19. Comment by post author

    Helena says:

    No problem! Our motorhome is 7.30 and we also saw buses. The roads are good!

    12 August 2018 - 12:04

    Reply

  20. Lena in Wales says:

    Long time since I was there, so fun to come back with you!

    12 August 2018 - 21:46

    Reply

  21. Lena - good for the soul says:

    Wow, I would have appreciated that paddling trip! How lovely it looks!

    Hug Lena

    14 August 2018 - 19:54

    Reply

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