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Dagö in Estonia - among lighthouses and Swedish history

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In co-operation with the Estonian Tourist Board

Dagö in Estonia is a green and scenic island, where it is easy to relax and unwind. The island is also an exciting place to visit for Swedes, as it has a long Swedish history.

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Dagö in Estonia

Dagö in Estonia, or Hiiumaa in Estonian, is an island off the western coast of Estonia. The main town on the island is Kärrdal (Kärdla in Estonian) and the entire island has a population of just over 9,000.

By ferry from Saaremaa

You can get to Dagö by ferry either from the mainland or from the island of Saaremaa. We chose the route from Saaremaa, between Triigi and Sõru ferry ports. With hindsight, we know that it would have been a good idea to either pre-book a ferry ticket or to arrive very early. We arrived just over an hour before the ferry left and didn't get on, which meant we had to wait another three hours for the next ferry. Eventually we made it to Dagö!

färjekö till Dagö i Estland

Swedish history on Dagö

One of the most interesting things about the island of Dagö in Estonia is the amount of Swedish history here. One village is still called Rootsi (Sweden), and the village sign reminds us that thousands of Swedes once lived here on Dagö.

Rootsi på Dagö i Estland

Estonian Swedes in Röicks (Reigi)

The village of Röicks, or Reigi as it is called in Estonian, was the centre of Estonian Swedes until 1781. There were around 80 Swedish farms and a church, where services were held in Swedish until 1830 and Swedish confirmation classes were given until 1863.

Since the Middle Ages, Estonian Swedes have enjoyed a privileged position. The so-called 'Swedish right' gave them legal advantages and lower taxes. However, conditions deteriorated in the 17th and 18th centuries and the Swedes protested.

Svenskarnas kyrka i Röicks på Dagö i Estland
Church of Sweden, Reigi Jeesuse Kirik, in Röicks (Reigi)

The Estonian Swedes were deported to Ukraine

The lord of Hohenholm (Kõrgessaare) grew tired of the protests of the Estonian Swedes and finally dismissed them in 1781. Soon after, Catherine II decided to deport them to the town of Gammelsvenskby in present-day Ukraine. The Swedes were forced to gather their family, possessions and animals and then walk to Ukraine. Only about 60 Swedes remained on Dagö after the deportation.

Today you can visit Korsberget (Ristimägi in Estonian) where the Swedes gathered in August 1781 to say a last prayer before emigrating to Ukraine. Here they took advantage of the place that had been the Swedes' home for 400-500 years. Today, many tourists visit the site, and part of the experience is to make your own little wooden cross and place it on the hill.

Korsberget på Dagö i Estland

Kärrdal (Kärdla)

Another important place in Swedish history is Kärrdal (Kärdla in Estonian), which is also the centre and residence of the municipality of Dagö. The town was first mentioned in 1564 as a Swedish settlement.

The tourist office in Kärdla is located in a former fire station.

The museum in Kärdla

A good way to find out more about life in Kärrdal (Kärdla) in the past is to visit the local museum. For a long time, most things in Kärdla revolved around the town's wool factory, which was run by the German Ungern-Sternberg family. The factory provided work and housing for many, but it was later destroyed by the Russians in an attempt to make it more difficult for the Germans to obtain good wartime uniforms.

Café in Kärdla

Next to the museum is a cosy little summer café, where we stopped by for a refreshing lingonberry or rhubarb soda.

Café Kärdla
Läsk

Three lighthouses on Dagö in Estonia

Dagö in Estonia is famous for its three lighthouses. All lighthouses are located in the north-west of the island and are very different from each other. To the far west is the Ristna lighthouse. The lighthouse is quite close to the Kõpu lighthouse, but because it is sometimes foggy, a new lighthouse was ordered from France in 1873.

Ristna fyr
Ristna lighthouse on Dagö in Estonia

Just east of the Ristna Lighthouse, the Kõpu Lighthouse is the oldest lighthouse in the Baltic Sea and the Baltic States. Its construction began more than 500 years ago, when the Hanseatic League needed a landmark. The lighthouse was built on the highest point of Dagö, 67 metres above sea level, and was originally equipped with a fire at the top.

Kõpu fyr
Kõpu lighthouse on Dagö in Estonia

The third lighthouse is called Tahkuna Lighthouse and is located on the northernmost tip of Dagö. Tsarist Russia bought the lighthouse tower at the Paris World Fair in 1871, and construction began in 1873.

Vid Tahkuna fyr på Dagö i Estland
At Tahkuna lighthouse on Dagö in Estonia
Fyr
The drone flies close and "looks into" the lighthouse ...

Right next to the lighthouse is a memorial with a bell, commemorating those who died in the 1994 Estonia disaster.

Surfer's paradise on Dagö in Estonia

Just below the Ristna lighthouse is a beach called "Surfer's Paradise". When we came down here we felt that we would have liked to stay for a week (but unfortunately we don't have time for that)! Nice atmosphere with a relaxed beach bar, chill music and a long fine sandy beach. Wonderful!

The Eiffel Tower on Dagö in Estonia

Not too far from Tahkuna Lighthouse is another tall and very special attraction, namely Dagö's "Eiffel Tower", Hiiumaa Eiffel Tower. Jaan Alliksoo is known on the island for building tall wooden towers, but also for creating other fascinating buildings and furniture.

You can now visit his large garden, which can be described as a homemade, imaginative and crazy theme park. As soon as you arrive at the car park and see the toilet, you realise that this is a special place.

We paid €2 each to enter, and then went into the garden which is filled with castles and fortresses, lighthouses, pirate ships, spaceships and labyrinths. One house is more imaginative and crazy than the other, but of course nothing beats "Dagö's Eiffel Tower". The tower is a replica of the real one in Paris and is made entirely of wood. You can go to the very top of the tower if you wish, but everything here is at your own risk. The park is an entirely private initiative and the attractions are not authorised by any authorities.

Eifelltornet på Dagö

Suuremõisa mansion

Suuremõisa Manor, located on the eastern part of the island, was built in 1755-1760 by Countess Ebba-Margaretha von Stenbock (née De la Gardie). There is a small museum room, but we arrived when it was closed, so we could only see the mansion from the outside.

Suuremõisa herrgård

Kassari and Orjaku

In the far southeast of Dagö in Estonia, there is a small green part of the island that almost stands out as its own little island. This is where the villages of Kassari and Orjaku are located, and where you can enjoy beautiful scenery.

Orjaku
In the fishing village of Orjaku

If you come by motorhome, we can highly recommend fricamping here. You can fricamp almost anywhere on Dagö, but on the stretch out towards Sääre tirp there are some of the finest fricamp sites we have ever seen. Along the coast there are lots of small sites in the bushes, perfect for motorhomes, caravans or tents. Free camping is allowed here, and the beach (pebble beach) is right next door.

Fricamping på Dagö i Estland
Fricamping på Dagö i Estland

Nearby you can also visit Käina, where you can see the ruins of the Käina church built between the 15th and 16th centuries. You can also visit Vaemla, where you can find the Vaemla wool factory.

Kyrkoruin i Käina
Käina church was destroyed in 1941
Ull
Clothes for sale at Vaemla wool factory

Our visit to Dagö in Estonia

We fell in love with Dagö and wished we had time to stay here longer. This is a green and beautiful island, and it's easy to feel the calm when you arrive here. In addition, it is very easy and pleasant to travel with a motorhome here.

Fricamping på Dagö i Estland
Strand på Dagö i Estland
Peter på Dagö i Estland

Video from Dagö

All our top tips for Estonia. Click on the image!

Facts about Dagö in Estonia

  • Country: Estonia
  • Landscape: Dagö
  • Municipality: Municipality of Dagö
  • Population: More than 9000 (2017)
  • Name: Dagö (Swedish), Hiiumaa (Estonian)

Things to see and do on Dagö

  • Attractions: Ristna Lighthouse, Kõpu Lighthouse, Tahkuna Lighthouse, the Eiffel Tower on Dagö, Dagö Military Museum, Kärdla Museum, Vaemla Wool Factory and Suuremõisa Manor.
  • Experiencing nature: On Dagö you can hike, cycle, swim, pick berries or mushrooms, camp or go on guided nature tours. There are plenty of hiking trails, barbecue areas, cabins and more. Read more about Hiiumaa Recreation Area.
  • Cultural experiences: In summer, many outdoor festivals and music events are organised, including jazz, classical and folk music.

Accommodation on Dagö in Estonia

  • Hotels and guest houses: There are many small hotels, guest houses and holiday homes. You can find different options at Visit Estonia website.
  • Camping: There are several serviced campsites on the island: Camp Vetsi Tall, Randmäe Puhketalu and Pihla Camping. There are also RMK campsites, i.e. campsites with tables and barbecue areas, which are free to use. It is also allowed to fricamp

Journey to Dagö in Estonia

  • Ferry from the mainland: Ferries run to Dagö (Heltermaa) from Rohuküla (Rus) on the mainland. It takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes to drive from Tallinn to Rohuküla. You can check the current ferry timetable at Praamid.ee.
  • Ferry from Saaremaa: It is also possible to get to Dagö in Estonia by ferry from Triigi on Saaremaa to Sõru on Dagö. These ferries run less frequently and are more likely to be full. Book in advance at Veeted.com (only a certain percentage of tickets can be booked) or arrive in time for the ferry.

Programme "Promoting Estonia as a Tourism Destination" is supported by European Union Regional Development Fund.

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