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Alvastra monastery ruins - and the Smoke Stone in Smoke

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Alvastra Abbey Ruin is the ruin of the monastery where St Birgitta once received her most famous revelations. Just ten minutes away you'll find the Rökstenen - the stone with the longest runic inscription in the world. A lot of history in a small area!

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Alvastra monastery ruins

Alvastra Abbey Ruin is the ruin of a former Cistercian monastery founded by monks from the French monastery of Clairvaux in 1143. Today, only the ruins of the church and monastery buildings remain, but it's fascinating to walk around the overgrown walls and think about what life might once have been like here.

Alvastra klosterruin - och rökstenen i Rök

Alvastra Abbey ruins are located in Alvastra, at the foot of the Omberg mountain in the municipality of Ödeshög. The monastery is located on the eastern side of Lake Vättern.

By road from Vadstena: Borghamn

We drove to Alvastra from Vadstena, and even though it's only a 25 minute journey, we had a few stops along the way. The first stops (at the delicacy shop Ladugård 206 and Vadstena crayfish) we already told you about in the previous post.

Shortly afterwards, we drove past a sign promising "country store" and ended up in Borghamn, which is located on the shore of Lake Vättern. Here we found smoked whitefish. Fantastic! We actually also found a small parking space for motorhomes in the harbour, but since it was afternoon and high summer, there were no vacancies.

On the road from Vadstena: Väversunda church

On the same route, between Vadstena and Alvastra monastery ruins, we made a short stop at Väversunda church. This church is located at the foot of Omberg and is one of the best examples of medieval churches in Östergötland.

Since we visited the church at an un-Christian time (actually at 07:00 the next morning, when we drove the same way back), the church was not open. Otherwise there should be some sights, such as a wooden door in wrought iron with both crucifixion and rune inscriptions.

Väversunda kyrka

Visit to Alvastra monastery ruins

Our main destination for the excursion from Vadstena was Alvastra Abbey ruins. When the monastery was founded in the 12th century, it was, together with Nydala Monastery in Värnamo, the first Cistercian monastery in the Nordic countries. As a predecessor, Alvastra subsequently founded the monasteries of Varnhem, Julita and Gudsberga.

Alvastra klosterruin

Alvastra Monastery is known, among other things, because it was here that St Birgitta received some of her most famous revelations. It was also here that she felt called to become "the bride and spokeswoman of Christ". Monastic life in Alvastra lasted until the monastery was dissolved around 1530, in connection with the Reformation.

All that remains today are ruins, and you have to use your imagination to visualise what once was: The monastery church of St Mary, the sacristy, the monks' wing with dormitory and study, the library, the cloister, the monks' dining room, the infirmary, the abbot's house, the monastery courtyard and other buildings.

We thought it was definitely worth visiting the Alvastra Monastery ruins, at least if you like history and ruins as much as we do. The visit is also completely free.

Helena och Peter i Alvastra klosterruin

Dinner at Alvastra monastery ruins

After looking around the ruins, it was time to feast on all the goodies we had bought along the way. The weather was fantastic, and we sat down at the picnic tables in the monastery's car park. Crayfish and smoked whitefish from Vättern together with cheeses that we bought at Brunneby musteri outside the monastery. Borensberg. Mum!

Rökstenen - Sweden's most talked about rune stone

Just over 10 minutes from Alvastra Abbey ruins is the Rökstenen, perhaps Sweden's most famous rune stone. The stone can be viewed under a small roof, just outside Rök's church.

Rökstenen i Rök

The Smoke Stone has an inscription of 760 characters, making it the longest runic inscription in the world. The stone was probably erected in the first half of the 9th century and the runes were carved by Varin, who wanted to honour his dead son with the text.

Moreover, the meaning of the long text is not entirely clear, which has given rise to a number of different interpretations. Isn't it fascinating that a text written in this area in the 9th century is still being read and discussed?

See more in the neighbourhood

Just north of Alvestra is Vadstena, a charming little town on the banks of Lake Vättern. There is a lot of history here and you can visit the magnificent castle and many buildings on the monastery grounds. It's also not too far to get to beautiful Motala, or to charming Borensberg. To the south, you can discover charming Gränna instead.

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Have you been to the Alvastra Abbey ruins or the Smoke Stone? How was your experience?

Facts about Alvastra monastery ruins

  • Municipality: Ödeshög municipality
  • County: County of Östergötland
  • Landscape: Östergötland
  • Founding: 1143
  • Active as a monastery: Until around 1530

Visiting Alvastra monastery ruins

  • Opening hours: The monastery ruins are open all year round, at all times of the day.
  • Prices: There is no charge to visit the monastery ruins.
  • Guidance: Contact the Ödeshög tourist office for more information.
  • Service: At the monastery ruins there are car parks, some tables and benches, a toilet and a rubbish bin.

Facts about Rökstenen

  • Location: Röks church
  • Municipality: Ödeshög municipality
  • County: County of Östergötland
  • Time of creation: 800s
  • Signum: Ög 136
  • Runrists: Varin
  • Style: RAK
  • Size: 382 cm (including 125 cm underground) high, 19-43 cm thick and 138 cm wide.
  • Material: granite

Visiting the Rökstenen in Rök

  • Opening hours: The Smoke Stone is located outdoors, and can be visited any day and time.
  • Prices: There is no charge to visit the Smoke Stone.
  • Service: There are car parks, covered information boards and toilets.

Find the Alvastra Abbey ruins and the Smoke Stone

  • To Alvastra: If you are coming from the north, take road 50 and at the Freberga junction turn off towards Vadstena, then continue south. If you are coming from the east, take the E4 motorway west and at Ödeshög turn north towards Alvestra. If you are coming from the south, take the E4 motorway north and turn off at Ödeshög.
  • To the Smoke Stone: Rökstenen is located 8.2 km east of Alvastra. From the monastery, drive east and follow the signs for Rökstenen.
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