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Guest writer: Jonathan Gharbi de Maré
The wine country of Armenia is a real hidden gem, but tourism is on the rise and even Sweden has a few visitors. The country is beautiful and the people are friendly, there is no reason not to visit.
Neighbouring Georgia is much more touristy and easy to travel by bus between the two countries. It takes around six hours and passes at an altitude of around 1500 metres among even higher mountain peaks. You can easily visit both, and it's thanks in part to Georgia that the region is getting more attention. However, the Nagorno-Karabakh region near Azerbaijan is sometimes unstable, so no one goes there anymore.
Armenia is the size of Dalarna and three million people live in this small country. Of the four wine regions, the Vayots Dzor region is the best known outside Armenia. Some of the Armenian wines in the systembolaget come from there.
The king and queen of grapes are the blue Areni grape and the green Voskehat. Areni is also a town in the vicinity of the first archaeological findings of 6000-year-old wine remains. It is also where the Areni Wine Fest takes place. Another grape of interest to the region is Kangun which is found in both Georgia and Armenia and is the basis for brandy in Armenia but mostly for wines in Georgia.
There used to be more vodka drinking, just like in the rest of the Soviet Union. But today, vodka has been replaced by wine and beer. Wine consumption has quadrupled since 2010. While local brandy still has its place in Armenia, it is more commonly consumed at home than in restaurants. The wine industry is thriving and is investing heavily, so there is a sense of enthusiasm and pride when talking about wine with Armenians.
Wine and coffee in Yerevan
Yerevan has a pleasant atmosphere and it is easy to get around on foot or by taxi for a few dollars. For those who like wine but also freshly roasted coffee, you should head straight to Saryan street, also known as wine street. This is also where the annual wine festival Yerevan Wine Days takes place.
Along the street, cosy wine bars and open-air cafes mingle with the smell of freshly roasted coffee. Armenians are also famous for their coffee. Coffee beans are not grown locally but imported and roasted daily in small quantities for optimal flavour. As with the wines, you can choose from a variety of coffees in most places.
Hundreds of Armenian wines
To get a good grasp of Armenia's wine culture, you should visit one of the two best wine bars. Let's start with In Vino, located on Saryan Street, a wine street. In Vino is also part of the Trinity wine brand which has several wines available at Systembolaget.
Originally it was three friends who decided to create something more than a social club and then started Trinity. They were one of the first in the wine industry and have very knowledgeable staff at In Vino so it's really nice to talk wine with them.
There are wines from floor to ceiling. Around 250 Armenian wines out of a total of one thousand wines are available at In Vino. The focus is on wine and wine again. Some cold cuts and other goodies are served alongside the wines, ask for a plate of tapas made from local produce.
There are always a handful of wines by the glass, but if you buy a bottle, 400 kronor is enough for a really good wine. They organise wine tastings and know all about the wines of Armenia so if you ask a question, be prepared for a long and detailed answer.
Wine and French food
The huge staircase in Yerevan is the most touristy area, but it's also home to very good restaurants and especially the Wine Republic, which is one of the legends of Yerevan. They were part of the wave of wine that washed over Armenia after 2010. Their French cuisine attracts both French diplomats and many Armenians visiting from France.
Both fish and French brie cheeses are served, not the usual ones but the ones that the French themselves prefer. There are always 7-8 wines you can order by the glass. They have a vacuum cooler where open bottles are stored optimally. You can also buy any of their hundred Armenian wines or old world wines with a focus on France. If you want wine and food, this is the place to go. The restaurant is divided into two parts and they also have a family section with Asian food.
There are countless wine bars but these two have been around since the beginning of the wave and have a vast knowledge and collection of Armenian wines.
Wine and coffee are high quality, but the country also has a burgeoning beer culture and you must visit the Dargett Craft Beer brewpub while you're there.
Armenia will soon undergo the same transition as Georgia and tourism is growing steadily, so for the curious and adventurous, it's a great destination.
Read more here about beer in Armenia
BP says:
My hairdresser is from Armenia. Will meet him on Friday, so then I can "grill" him a bit;-) Oh Ladan - looks like it was/is a police car. At least the car is still going strong:-)
16 November 2022 - 20:09
Jonathan says:
incredibly many well-kept small barns in Armenia, very nice feature! There was actually a real police car out in the countryside, they probably had no ambition to overtake anyone with it, one would hope 😉.
16 November 2022 - 21:10