Preparing for Socotra - Aunt Anna's lists

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Guest writer: Anna Nilsson Spets

Legends say that Bird Phoenix and Bird Rock (Sinbad the Navigator) originated on Socotra. That's where I'm going now, to the island of dragon's blood trees. A dream journey.

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The big planning started in early December. Oh my god, it's been a long time since I had so much to keep track of and fix before a trip. Normally I throw some stuff in my wheeled bag, throw all the good and bad stuff in my toiletry bag and hit the road.

This trip ... completely different. I write LISTS, loooong lists. I don't even do that when I go food shopping. This trip is to Socotra, the completely unknown island off Yemen.

After much research, I decided to Socotra Speciality Tours (SST), a local company that patiently and quickly answered all questions, with the attitude that no question is too much.

Such an unknown destination with only a few thousand tourists a year is not exactly overflowing with offers. SST has a good detailed programme, an excellent environmental approach to protect the vulnerable nature with its wealth of endemic species. Their Instagram attracts me with beautiful pictures, kilometres of sand dunes and turquoise sea.

I start with two nights in Abu Dhabi, waiting for the once-a-week flight to the island.

Abu Dhabi, I have surfed around and found some things I want to see. The Grand Mosque, the Falcon Rehabilitation Centre and the Saluki Centre. 

Both falcons and Salukis are typical of hunting in the Arab world.

Cheap hotel booked, well there is nothing that is really cheap in Abu Dhabi. Then it's off to Socotra, the island that no one knows where it is, that flight takes around 2 hours.

Socotra Specialty Tours has arranged both the flight ticket and the visa. I will be part of a small group, with whom I have no idea. The group has a driver, a guide and a couple of fixers who make sure we get food and accommodation.

Shelter yes, I'm going camping ... have camped hundreds of times and have basically said to myself, never again. But well, everything is fixed on site by the company; tent, bedding, you name it. Even a portable toilet.

There IS one or possibly two hotels on the island, but the roads are basically barely passable so camping is the best option. I camp. Different places every night, on the sandy white beaches or among the dragon's blood trees, the stars become my bed sky.

Electricity and internet, ugh, I am so incredibly untechnical when it comes to today's gadgets ... The infrastructure is clearly substandard with days without internet and power, I have charged (haha) with two powerbanks, headlamp and regular flashlight.

I have an emergency number for relatives to call if I can't be reached and I buy a SIM card. Cables and extra batteries for the camera and to keep everything in order a small bag for the purpose. I know myself, zero control as it were. My bag usually looks like a rubbish bag.

Medicines, yes the older you get the more you need. I have vaccinations from before, malaria does not exist. I pack a broad-spectrum antibiotic, immodium, painkillers, hand sanitiser, denture stuff, plasters and sunscreen and a lot of other things in case ...

There is a hospital in the tiny dusty capital, it can't be worse than the tent hospital in Djibouti I imagine. And for the first time in my life I take a walking stick with me. After all, we're going to hike up to some spectacular caves ...

Clothes ... it's around 30 degrees centigrade, thin comfortable clothes, chilly nights it will be leggings. Now I am travelling to a Muslim country and it is asked for decent clothing when visiting villages, a longer dress and a shawl for over the hair should be included.

Shoes, hiking sandals, swimming shoes. Swimming should be done every day ... two swimsuits, my thin life jacket is great for snorkelling.

No pool swimming there!

Supplies. Food is cooked over an open fire several times a day, fresh from the sea, freshly baked bread, an accompanying cook and fixer comes along in the 4 W jeep I'm going with. I am severely addicted to coffee and bring my own instant coffee as the shops are not exactly dense.

Insurance, well that was not the easiest, my bank totally refuses as Socotra belongs to Yemen which is a red zone. It had to be an international insurance company that takes care of it. However, the security at Socotra is completely ok.

Money, ATMs are to be forgotten, it's cash dollars, newer notes and flawless. Here in rural, slightly backward Belgium, you book an appointment to order the cash and an appointment to collect it. Two weeks delivery time. I sigh.

Making copies of passports and visas is on the list, printing tickets in case I don't have a net. Medicine list from my family doctor.

Then there's the rowing at home, lists of phone numbers for the vet, one dog's medicine, when to put the rubbish out. Planning for work is also a list. Phew, I have x number of lists now. Wonder if that helps?

When all the lists are finished, I can breathe a sigh of relief, get on the first flight on 29 December and hope to be able to offer you more great reports later.

I wish you a peaceful New Year.

Top image in the story: Photos from Socotra Specialty Tours

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Anna Nilsson Spets

60+ year old lady with a lifelong love for Africa. Emigrated to Flanders in Belgium and works with plants on a daily basis. Writes, takes photos and tries to inspire others to budget travel on their own. Blogs on "Anna's mix" about travelling, work, plants, writing and much more.

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